影片中 Lynn Hill 談她認為重要的完攀訣竅,尤其她非常強調耐心的重要性,就是郎爸每次要我們慢慢來,不要急的意思。她說的一些心理技巧,其實大家多多少少都聽過,那因為今天颱風天,所以楷記者不能去風城,就來簡單口譯一些內容。
Lynn Hill 指出完攀(onsight climbing)的訣竅是要放鬆而且要耐心(relaxed and patient),不是說要你在岩壁上等太久弄到 pump,浪費力氣。而是當攀爬難路線或比賽時會心情緊張,造成在未準備好之前,即出手去抓點,反而喪失 onsight 的機會。所以很重要的,要專注,要看清楚岩點,要專心於下一個動作,確定準備好再出手,因此耐心在這個過程中變得重要。有時可先移動腳的位置,有時可以先做平衡,再做出下個動作。如果感覺不對,可以先微調,再做出下一個移動。看清楚岩點,它的形狀,它的角度,想好要怎麼抓它,在腦中可先視覺化這個過程(visualization)。這是攀岩的藝術,知道要往那裡走,知道怎麼樣算是等太久,這些都需要經驗。
你必須要測試自己,選一條合適的路線去 onsight,對 Lynn Hill 而言,onsight climbing 是終極的(ultimate)目標,是追求完美,是在組合各種條件之下,要求自己去做到最好。所以 onsight climbing 涉及到心理因素,你必須專注,必須先想像自己要怎麼移動,必須敏感察覺到自己身體和重力間的作用。在過程中,你會不斷問自己問題,是不是太偏左了,是不是要開門了,我該把腳移高或移低,也許該先退一步找到最佳位置再重新出手。
所以有經驗是最好的,但你同時也要把注意力放在身體內在的位置,和你的心理狀態。如果妳太緊張,妳可能會沒辦法思考,妳會看不到點,妳可能會想很快去抓點,而沒有把身體放到最好的位置。所以要有耐性,不要急著移動,過於急燥是許多人容易犯的錯誤。Lynn Hill 認為耐心是她認為最有用的攀岩訣竅,它適用於各式的攀岩過程包括比賽,當你急著要爬完登頂,你可能會忘記其他的事,但這時一定要記得,要有耐性。
Well, you done done me and you bet I felt it I tried to be chill but your so hot that I melted I fell right through the cracks, now I'm tryin to get back before the cool done run out I'll be givin it my best test
and nothin's gonna stop me but divine intervention I reckon it's again my turn to win some or learn some But I won't hesitate no more, no more, it cannot wait I'm yours Well open up your mind and see like me
open up your plans and damn you're free look into your heart and you'll find love love love love listen to the music of the moment people dance and sing We're just one big family And it's our godforsaken right to be loved loved loved loved loved
So, i won't hesitate no more, no more, it cannot wait i'm sure there's no need to complicate our time is short this is our fate I'm yours *scat*
I've been spendin' way too long checkin' my tongue in the mirror and bendin' over backwards just to try to see it clearer But my breath fogged up the glass and so I drew a new face and I laughed I guess what I'd be sayin' is there ain't no better reason
to rid yourself of vanities and just go with the seasons it's what we aim to do our name is our virtue But I won't hesitate no more, no more it cannot wait I'm yours Well open up your mind and see like me
open up your plans and damn you're free look into your heart and you will find that the sky is yours so please don't, please don't, please don't, there's no need to complicate, Cause our time is short